Road Trip the Upstate Eats Trail: A Heritage Food Trail Featuring Famous Upstate New York Cuisine
If you’re looking for a great excuse to take a road trip, this Upstate New York food trail is a fun way to do it. Taking you from Binghamton to Buffalo and covering the legacies of Americans who have brought their delicacies to this region, the Upstate Eats Trail offers a way to immerse yourself in some of the most famous heritage dishes from this part of New York State.
Taking a food trail is a fun way to get to know local cuisine. Be it the Iberian Ham of the Jabugo Route in Southern Spain, or the Cuban delicacies you can find on a Little Havana Food Tour in Miami, travel decisions led by food make for a fun way to plan a trip.
Today’s food trail is centred in Upstate NY cuisine. I’ve had the pleasure of spending quite a lot of time in New York State over the years. Given its close proximity to my home in Ontario, its dynamic cities and their diverse restaurant scenes, and the wide open natural spaces in areas like the Finger Lakes, New York State has so much to offer.
So when it came time for Chris and I to taste my our through the Upstate Eats Trail in Upstate and Western New York, it was a difficult opportunity to pass up.
What Exactly is The Upstate Eats Trail?
The Upstate Eats Trail is a food trail connecting four major cities in Upstate New York: Binghamton, Syracuse, Rochester and Buffalo. Most of the establishments on the trail are located in each city, with a few stops outside of the city centres, in smaller communities and rural areas.
What makes the Upstate Eats Trail special isn’t only the food stops that you’ll make along the way, but the deeper understanding of the immigrant stories and experiences that have taken place in New York State for the better part of the last 200 years. Thanks to Ellis Island in New York City, New York State was settled by immigrants coming to the United States from many different parts of the world. On this trail, you’ll learn about primarily Italian, German and Irish immigrant stories, but of course there are many other local stories which make up the Upstate Eats Trail, too.
The fact that so many of these restaurants are not only still surviving, but thriving today is a testament to how important they are to their locals. Not only were many of these stops on the food trail businesses opened by immigrants as a way to make a living in a new country, but they were community hubs where people facing all sorts of challenges could come to relax, laugh, and eat something comforting.
On that note, you’ll quickly realize that many of these classic food stops in Upstate NY weren’t exactly focused on calorie counting in the early days. Many of these places offer hearty recipes passed down through generations and traditions unconcerned with cholesterol intake or weight on a scale. For this reason, you’ll find that you likely won’t want to stop at all of the food stops on this list in one trip, but I’m hopeful this article will help to shape your own trip along this trail.
Chris and I personally selected a couple stops in each city, but you can learn about the full trail, linked at the bottom of this article. We decided to take the Upstate Eats Trail from Binghamton to Buffalo, but you can go the opposite way if you’d like, too. For this reason I’ve organized the food stops in this order, but feel free to approach it however it makes sense to you.
Most importantly, as you take this trail, take the time to appreciate the many generations of history and culture that have stood here before you.
Food Stops Binghamton, NY
Binghamton is a city with a lot of heart and history. It’s home to some exciting food stops, and great ways to enjoy the slower pace of life in the rural areas just outside of the downtown core.
Apple Dumpling Café
Established in 1848, this sixth-generation family farm has grown to become a local favourite. Owner Joy knew at a very early age that she “didn’t want anything else but this” of the hard work and rewarding relationships the apple and berry farm has brought to her throughout her life. The cafe here is known for their breakfast offerings like breakfast sandwiches and pancakes, and they grow 13 varieties of apples in their orchards on site.
Depending on the time of year you visit, they offer activities like pick-your-own berries and apples, an 8-acre corn maze, and wagon rides. Their farm store and market also features local maple syrup, seasonal fresh produce, and unique gifts. And you have to be sure you’ll try their famous cider and cinnamon donuts while you’re here, too.
Spiedie & Rib Pit
Pronounced “speedy”, this hyper-regional delicacy can really only be found in and around Binghamton. It was brought to America by Italian immigrants in the 1920s. Derived from the Italian word “spiedo”, meaning spit, and the regional Italian dish called spiedini/spidducci, all you need to know about a spiedie is that you can expect expertly wood-fired chicken or pork served on a freshly cooked bun.
Owner John John shares that his grandparents started the business in the early 1990s. Spiedies were all traditionally made of lamb, but have shifted to chicken and pork over the years. You can select either meat for your sandwich, and try anything from their traditional spiedies to their specialty spiedies. We sampled the original and Greek Spiedies during our visit, and they were both phenomenal.
Factory by Beer Tree Brew
Located in Johnson City, Factory by Beer Tree Brew is a modern restaurant and brewery with a downstairs beer hall and an upstairs restaurant with a wood-fired pizza oven, and a large indoor and outdoor seating area.
You can expect pub-style menu options and delicious pizzas during your visit. We sampled the brewer bites which are soft pretzel bites made with the brewery’s spent grain, a kale and quinoa salad, and a dill pickle pizza, all of which were delicious. We enjoyed sampling some unique brews like a Fruta con Tajin sour, and a refreshing lager.
The Little Venice
The Little Venice in Binghamton offers a delightful Italian-American dining experience. Opened in 1946, their interior is decked out with nods to Italian-Americans’ history here in Binghamton.
We dined on a garden salad with tomatoes, homemade Italian dressing, and pepperoncini peppers. They’re famous for their meat logs here (similar to meat balls), and we tried them with spaghetti. We also enjoyed the Mama’s Chicken Cutlet served with ravioli stuffed with fresh ricotta.
From Binghamton, it’s just over an hour to drive to Syracuse.
Road Trip Stops in Syracuse, NY
On top of being a fun destination in itself, Syracuse is also filled with some exciting stops on the Upstate Eats Trail. Here are a few to keep your eye out for:
Dinosaur Barbecue
Dinosaur has been serving up mouthwatering Southern BBQ here in Syracuse since 1988. There are a few locations across New York State now, but their original location at 246 W. Willow Street is the original. They’re a first-come, first-served operation here, since it’s such a popular place, but fortunately they have a great bar area to hang out at if you need to wait for a table.
When it comes to dining, it’s hard to make a bad choice at Dinosaur. Their tasting platters are the perfect way to try a few items—we tried their Tres Niños Platter, which features smoked brisket, ribs, and pulled pork. Of course it wouldn’t be true BBQ without a delicious selection of house made sides and sauces. Their Gruyère-forward mac 'n' cheese is a must-try, and their classic coleslaw hits the spot. Their sauces are delightful, too; we loved their Garlic Chipotle, Wango Habanero, and the Original.
Beyond BBQ, we loved the build-your-own salad we ordered, and we simply couldn’t leave without trying one of their homemade desserts. The Caramel Pie and the Cheesecake sounded amazing, but we opted to split a slice of Peanut Butter Pie, which was incredibly good.
Coleman’s Authentic Irish Pub
Talk about a place with a lot of history and heart. Coleman’s has been open since 1933 in the Tipperary Hill neighbourhood, and has been a beacon for the Irish-American community ever since. The pub began as a working man's saloon and has expanded to more than three times its original size today. Despite the additions, it still feels like a true, intimate Irish pub.
The pub is filled with many nods to Ireland, and is the perfect place to come for an authentic Guinness pour, Irish Soda Bread, or a meat pie. You won’t be able to miss the decor and stained glass window memorializing its inverted traffic light. If you walk a few blocks west of the pub, you’ll see the original traffic light in all its glory at the intersection of Brunet Park Dr. and Tompkins St., along with the Tipperary Hill Heritage Memorial.
The story goes that several Irish Americans got together and flipped the traffic light upside down one night, since they felt that the red light being on the top honoured the British over the Irish. Today, the traffic light with the green light at the top and the red light at the bottom still has its place here.
Heid’s of Liverpool
Everyone loves a great hot dog spot, and Heid's of Liverpool has been serving up iconic Hofmann franks and coneys since 1917. Their current location has been open since 1930, and is an iconic Central New York staple that has been mentioned by many a publication over the years.
You’ll definitely want to snap a photo or two of its iconic, vintage facade, and you can help yourself to a hot dog, sausage, or treat yourself to an ice cream during your visit.
Skaneateles Stops
A short drive from Syracuse is the eastern gateway to the Finger Lakes: Skaneateles. There are so many things to do in Skaneateles (pronounced like “skinny-atlas”), which is a charming small town on Skaneateles Lake.
Skaneateles Bakery: This well-loved community bakery has had several owners over the years since it opened in the 1950s. It’s a great place to come for a morning nibble, sweet treat, or a coffee. We popped in during the late morning and had an iced coffee, an almond crunch cookie, and a carrot cake cupcake, and they were all delicious.
Doug’s Fish Fry: This beloved spot has been serving up fish sandwiches since the 1980s. You have to try one of their famous fish sandwich meals, but they also have other seafaring dishes like shrimp, clams, oysters, and scallops. Make sure you take some time to enjoy their interior, which has a beautiful mural of the town and the shores of the lake, and there’s even a model train that makes its way around the interior of the restaurant.
From Syracuse, you’ll head to your next stop on the trail: Rochester is about a 1.5 hour drive from Skaneateles.
Restaurant Stops in Rochester, NY
If you’ve been a longtime reader of ours, then you’ll know that Chris and I have both visited Rochester several times now, and adore every chance we have to visit. On top of checking some of the many wonderful sites and attractions in town, here are a few food stops you should consider checking out as you make your way through this section of the the Upstate Eats Trail.
Rochester Public Market
This market has been a community staple since 1905, and is still a bustling place to visit over 100 years later. It’s open on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays, and offers a wide range of fresh produce, meats, seafood, eggs, cheese, baked goods, pasta, and more.
Given that the market is primarily open over breakfast and lunch, some of the best ways to sample foods in the market are to focus on breakfast or brunch dishes to get your day started right. Cherry’s European is famous for their delightful breakfast sandwiches (cash only), and neighbouring Juan & Maria’s Empanadas has all sorts of flavours of empanadas, including breakfast ones!
Public Provisions serves up a delicious menu perfect for dining in, or grabbing items like an iced coffee to go. And if you’re looking for an energy boost, you can’t go wrong grabbing one or more juices from MRKT Squeeze Fresh Pressed Juice—you can find their stand inside of Shed B.
Bill Gray’s
Situated in Seabreeze, Bill Gray’s has been open since 1938. As you may have guessed, it was opened by a gentleman named Bill Gray, who was then a humble worker for the largest employer in town, Eastman Kodak (read our article about the George Eastman Museum to learn more). Today, Bill Gray’s is a popular place to come for those looking for a little respite and a tasty treat on the shores of Lake Ontario.
Anyone from New York State will claim that their hot dogs are the best. The regional delicacy to order here at Bill Gray’s is a Zweigle’s White Hot, and they are delicious. You can also find Abbott’s frozen custard here, but we’d recommend you read on to visit the original location for the real deal.
If you’re looking for proper lakefront views while you’re in Seabreeze, then I’d recommend heading to Marge’s Lakeside Inn. It’s a bar offering beautiful views of the sandy beaches on the shores of the lake.
Abbott’s Frozen Custard
Frozen custard is a staple of Upstate New York, and Abbott’s Frozen Custard is one of best known places for it. It all started with Arthur Abbott, who travelled summer carnivals in the early 1900s with his secret recipe for a frozen dessert. By 1926, he opened a stand across from Charlotte Beach in Rochester, NY, and his frozen custard quickly became popular.
The business was taken over in 1957 by Thelma and Lenny Schreiber, and this location remains family owned to this day. They offer classic flavours like vanilla, chocolate and chocolate almond, but they also have rotating daily flavours, like pineapple and raspberry. Definitely Plan to grab a frozen custard before taking a walk along Ontario Beach to the Charlotte Pier when you’re in this corner of Rochester.
Nick Tahou Hots
Opened in 1918, Nick Tahou is famous for its signature only-in-Rochester dish: the Garbage Plate. It’s quite the production—and not for the faint of heart—involving a variety of meats, sides, and sauces served atop something fried. The restaurant is located in a large, historic building and has become a local landmark and a symbol of Rochester’s culinary culture.
From Rochester, you’ll drive to the final city on the trail—Buffalo! It’s just over an hour to drive from Rochester to Buffalo.
Road Trip Stops in Buffalo, NY
Buffalo is filled with so many exciting things do to, an incredible amount of fantastic restaurants to check out, and some excellent museums and galleries to visit. But this city that was once home to the most millionaires per capita is filled with wonderful heritage food stops to round up the Upstate Eats Trail.
Anchor Bar
Often seen as the bar where chicken wings really “took off” in Buffalo (this is a contested topic—and rightfully so, given how many cultures have been eating chicken wings for years), Anchor Bar is a sort of rite-of-passage stop on a preliminary trip to Buffalo.
It’s been open since the mid 1960s, with a kitschy indoor area filled with Buffalo Wing and nautical-themed decor. Their menu is home to all sorts of classics, and some unique flavours, with everything from an Original Buffalo rub to Spicy Garlic Parmesan. It’s a great place to come and enjoy some delicious wings and a pint of beer.
Parkside Candy
Parkside Candy is a truly nostalgic place to visit. Its spherical, walnut interior is still intact from 1927, complete with historic light fixtures and a soda fountain that will take you right back in time—it’s even a National Historic Site!
They’re famous for their Sponge Candy and Taffy, and it’s a great place to pop in for a traditional ice cream sundae or banana split. The best seat in the house is the “sweetheart corner”, which is a booth tucked in the very back of the parlour, carefully carved out of wood and the perfect, cozy spot for two.
Schwabl’s
Commonly seen as the birthplace of the now famous Beef on Weck sandwich, Schwabl’s has been operating as a family business for over 200 years. It’s seen a few iterations and changes of family hands over the years, but their commitment to authenticity, warmth and hospitality for all guests who visit remains.
They make all of their food from scratch, and you can even watch your beef on weck being carved from your table. Its location in an historic house makes you feel like you’ve sat down in a beloved family member’s cozy dining room for your meal, and make sure you check out their antique cash register during your visit, too.
Don’t Forget to Bring Your Appetite on This Trail!
We hope you’ve enjoyed learning about some of these iconic stops on the Upstate Eats Trail as much as we did stopping by them on our road trip through Upstate New York.
Remember that this trip can be customized to fit what you’re looking for, and if you’re local to the area, these are all worthwhile stops to have on your radar for their noted historic contributions to the area.
I’d like to thank the Upstate Eats Trail and Visit Buffalo Niagara for hosting me on this trip. All opinions expressed are completely my own. If you’re looking for the complete list of stops on the trail, you can find them all on the official Upstate Eats Trail website.