Cycling the Véloroute Gourmande: Experience the Wonders of The Eastern Townships & Montérégie By Bike
The Véloroute Gourmande is a nearly 250 kilometre cycling route that stretches across the Eastern Townships & Montérégie in Quebec. It’s more than just a cycling trail, though, it’s an invitation to experience local culture, cuisine, and to intimately connect with a stunning natural landscape.
Bri and I on the Véloroute Gourmande. Photo Credit: Christopher Mitchell
As travellers, there’s a genuine joy in deciding that you’re going to not only explore a new destination, but to explore it in a new way. For years and years, I’ve been vocal that, to me, there isn’t a better way to get a feel for the magic of a region than by cycling through it.
I’ve talked before about the idea that you can’t cover enough ground with just your two feet, and driving is a little too quick to be able to pick up all the little details that, in my humble opinion, define a destination. Don’t get me wrong, I love a good road trip, but there’s something special about planning a lengthy cycling route in an area, especially when the destination has put in the effort to build out the appropriate cycling infrastructure.
It’s about the state of the trails, sure, but it’s also about how welcoming the businesses are to cyclists, how cars react and recognize visitors or locals on their respective bikes, accommodation options (including how bikes are stored), and more. For years, I’d heard that, with all of that in mind, I had to ride the Véloroute Gourmande — and when Bri and I got the chance to do just that, it was a dream come true.
The Véloroute Gourmande is an ambitious cycling route that takes time to cover, but it’s accessible for riders of all skill levels. It’s also worth noting that you’re rarely far away from a cafe filled with character, a restaurant that utilizes all that grows around them in creative ways, or a hotel or inn where you’ll be welcomed like family. Seriously, Quebec, and the regions along the Véloroute Gourmande in particular, does hospitality with the best of them.
Just in writing and reflecting on this experience, I swear I’d do it all again tomorrow if I could, and that’s always a good sign. That being said, this article is about sharing all you need to know to consider whether this route is for you, while recognizing that you don’t have to do it all. If you want to only tackle one section, that’s okay as well — what’s important is the acknowledgment that, when you’re ready, this is all waiting for you, and this 235 kilometre route which connects Montréal and Sherbrooke, spanning both the Montérégie and Eastern Townships regions, is, to date, unquestionably some of the best cycling that we’ve ever done in Canada.
What to Know About The Eastern Townships and Montérégie
While the Véloroute Gourmande is relatively new, The Eastern Townships have been a tourist destination since 1850. Located just an hour's drive from Montréal, the Eastern Townships region borders the U.S. states of Vermont, New Hampshire, and Maine.
It includes 9 territories/regions (Brome-Missisquoi, Granby, Memphrémagog, Sherbrooke, Caoticook River Valley, Val-Saint-François, Des Sources, Haut-Saint-François, & Megantic), 114 municipalities, more than 30 vineyards and microbreweries, 4 national parks, 365 km of cycling routes, 8 mountain bike centers and many gravel circuits, and over a hundred short, average and long-distance hiking trails.
For lovers of the outdoors like myself, it’s a natural playground that, as a Canadian, I feel blessed to have access to. It’s not surprise that it’s one of the most visited regions in the province of Québec.
The name Montérégie comes from the Latin phrase "mons regius," meaning Mount Royal, and is inspired by the five hills that stretch between the island of Montréal and the Appalachians. Covering 11,000 km, this region is rich in historic events and stunning nature that have shaped modern Québec.
Via bike, you’ll have the opportunity, like we did, to explore the diverse attractions across its four distinct tourist areas: Montérégie-West, the South Shore, the Richelieu River, and Montérégie-East.
The Vision for the Véloroute Gourmande
The Véloroute Gourmande is as cycle friendly a route as you’ll find. Photo Credit: Christopher Mitchell
You’ll be riding along the Route Verte and the Trans Canada Trail (along with other smaller sub-trails) as you cover this stunning route that spans nearly 250 kilometres. You can easily make your own itinerary, which I’ll get into below, but the classic route is done in 4 distinct stages (which I’ll also cover in full).
The idea is simple — why not meaningfully connect to a region while you cycle? You’ll want to stop for food, you’ll want to pause and take in some of the attractions, and you’ll need to sleep each night to get ready for the next day’s ride, so why not do all of that thoughtfully and intentionally?
They offer shuttle and vehicle conveyance, luggage transportation, bicycle rentals, and a variety of parking options, so that you can focus on enjoying the sights and smells, and not about the administrative details.
Across the route, there are over 125 foodie spots, 34 cultural attractions, 80+ accommodation options, and 25+ options for other activities.
If you’re looking to dive deeper and route plan, there’s an entire website set up to help you do precisely that. I’ll highlight the major routes, and some of the stops that we enjoyed while we were fortunate enough to be out on the trails! Keep in mind that the name of this route roughly translates to “the gourmet cycle route,” so food is an essential part of the journey.
And let’s be real — who doesn’t love (and need) to eat well when they’re putting in the kilometres on their preferred saddle?
*Please note that this article contains affiliate links. Simply put, this means we may receive a small commission for some of our heartfelt and honest recommendations at zero additional cost to you.
Tackling the Véloroute Gourmande
4 distinct sections, one incredible journey.
Section 1: Montréal To St-Jean-sur-le-Richelieu
This section is 45 kilometres in length, with a total of 307 metres of elevation, and is noted as “easy,” at least comparatively speaking. You’ll find both paved and unpaved sections, as with all 4 sections of the Véloroute Gourmande.
You’ll kick things off from Montréal. If you’ve never been to, I’d recommend spending time in one of Canada’s most fascinating cities before you head out. It’s a special place. I have family that lives there, and I’m always looking for an excuse to visit!
If you’re hungry, you may want to stop for food in Brossard, but if you’re good to go, then it’s straight to Fort Chambly National Historic Site in order to understand why soldiers felt the need to build this fort all the way back in 1711. There are also numerous restaurants here, and if you’re looking to treat yourself already, you might want to stop by La Bamboche Crèmerie for an ice-cream, or Microbrasserie Délieres et Délices / Bedondaine et Bedons Ronds for a cold one.
Riding along Chambly Canal is a genuine treat, and it’s only about 20 kilometres from Chambly to Saint-Jean-sur-Richelieu along the Montérégiade.
When we arrived in Saint-Jean-sur-Richelieu, we were fortunate enough to get the chance to meet Michel Saint-Amand, the the chef and owner of 3 restaurants of the Old Quarter of Saint-Jean-sur-Richelieu : The Bistro La Morgane, the hidden terrasse of Glen Morgan's Irish Pub and the new born Parma Deli, located right in front of the harbour. We tried many of his dishes, and they are superb, so you can’t go wrong here.
We stayed at Flotel St-Jean-sur-Richelieu, essentially a little hotel split amongst three converted houseboats in the marina. It was a neat experience, especially with the artificial turf and bean bags on the roof, but I will note that it was one houseboat split in two, and we were fortunate not to have neighbours. I do imagine it could be a little bit of a different experience if we had folks right beside us. I loved the concept, and it was an interesting place to stay, but it was just a little tight indoors.
Pro-tip: If you’re there in the summer, see what summer entertainment in on at the Place publique du Vieux-St-Jean. Generally speaking, I’d recommend spending some time walking around the main streets in the downtown core, as well as walking along the waterfront.
Section 2: St-Jean-sur-Richelieu To Granby
This section is 50 kilometres in length, with 217 metres of elevation (so relatively flat), and an “easy” designation. Generally speaking, this route follows the Route Verte, which includes La Montérégiade.
Say goodbye to traffic, and say hello to farmlands stretching as far as the eye can see.
The first major stop here is the surprisingly hip and picturesque city of Farnham, which calls the region of Brome-Missisquoi home. On your way into the city, stop at the Farnham Ale & Lager Microbrewery, and its neighbour, Fromagerie des Cantons. From there, I’d strongly recommend getting lunch at Yamaska Café. You can eat outside and appreciate the street art adorning the building, or enjoy some time indoors and out of the sun in their hip as can be setting. Their freshly made sandwiches are divine.
Nature lovers may want to stop at the Centre d’interprétation de la nature du lac Boivin to understand the flora and fauna of the region. On the way into Granby, if the previous spot is up your alley, then also consider the Absintherie des Cantons, a family owned business with products that are made with plants that are handpicked in the Eastern Townships region.
If you want to treat yourself (because why not?), you can celebrate your arrival in Granby with a visit to Le Grimoire Microbrasserie.
We spent the night in Granby at the regal Le Saint-Christophe, which we were both impressed with. For one, they had a seperate bike locker so you didn’t have to lug your bike up to your room, but beyond that, their whole focus on wellness and having a nordic spa set-up was ideal after a day of riding, and before heading out to dinner.
For dinner, we went to Bistro Kapzak, a Polish and Quebecois fusion restaurant with a lovely menu, an enormous beer list, and a mixology program that is worthy of a lot of respect. For us, this was the ideal spot to dine, so we’d wholeheartedly recommend it, especially with the rustic-chic atmosphere they’ve built there.
Section 3: Granby to Orford
This route is a little longer, coming in at 70 kilometres, and most notably, on this day, you’ll be dealing with a fair bit more elevation, as you’ll cover over 1000 metres of elevation. That’s why we (and I’d recommend you do the same) had plenty of stops to refuel on both great local cuisine, as well as caffeinated beverages. It’s considered an intermediate ride.
This section covers the Route Verte, which includes the Estriadde, Campagnarde and Montagnarde.
Before you take off from Granby, get your caffeine fix at Café de la Brûlerie, and if you’re looking to add in a dash of culture, pop by the Artria Open Air Museum.
One thing that’s neat about this route, by the way, is the availability of swimming spots that you could conceivably stop at, so pack that bathing suit in your day pack.
On the way to Waterloo, you might also want to consider a detour for lunch in Bromont, or perhaps a stop at the Autour de la Pomme, cidery and distillery. When we stopped by, we visited N Latté, the Chocolate Museum, and Fromagerie Bromont. Don’t forget your camera here as well, it’s an utterly picturesque spot.
In Waterloo, we’d recommend taking in the downtown vibe at Boutique-Café Espace Boho. That’s where we re-caffeinated, shared a sandwich or two, as well as some fresh daily baked goods. You may also want to stop for a beer at Robin, Sissi Buvette, get a snack at Marché Foster, or even a little dessert at Gâteaux Duvoquick.
In Eastman, we had to great stop at La Station, which as an ideal outdoor space for cyclists. They’ve got coffee, beer, wine, homemade cocktails, as well as meals featuring local ingredients, a pizza oven, and I’d definitely recommend you go inside to check out their array of local products. We also saw an art class going on here when we stopped by, so it’s quite clearly a central hub for the local community.
From the moment we arrived, at our final destination of the day, Magog, we loved the vibe there. I’d strongly recommend staying at the Hôtel Versō, which has a fabulous restaurant (Bistro Kóz), and is also located right on the waterfront, so it’s an ideal spot from which to explore the promenade. Of all the destinations we visited, it’s Magog that shines as the place we’d like to go back to and explore in more depth, especially some of the cafes and restaurants on the main street. The way the city is set-up, with bike lanes and so forth, it’s also basically a cyclist’s dream come true. Hôtel Versō also has a locked crate to store bikes, so it’s as cyclist friendly as it gets.
For some more specific recommendations for Magog, consider visiting Maison Merry to get a sense of the unique history of the area, Vieux Clocher to perhaps catch a performance, and be sure to check out the Pointe Merry, featuring beautiful views of Memphrémagog Lake.
Other nearby options also include Cherry River Distillery and La Memphré Microbrewery.
Section 4: Orford to Sherbrooke
For the final leg of this journey, you’ll travel 60 kilometres, with over 850 metres of elevation, also making it an “intermediate” ride. All that to say, you’re going to be burning more calories and energy on section 3 and 4, so prepare for that accordingly.
Once again, you’ll be following the Route Verte, this time covering the Montagnarde and the Grandes-Fourches Cycling Network.
Keep your eyes peeled for some of the scenic landscapes as you leave the Orford region, most notably how the mountains and lake come together to make some mighty picturesque scenery. My guess is you’ll be stopping quite regularly to take in the majesty of Lake Memphremagog or Lake Massawippi.
The first stop I’d aim to make would be at a restaurant or cafe in North Hatley, and specifically Massawippi Mercantile, which functions as a marketplace, but also serves seasonal local bites. La Cie Vilandré Pub would be the spot to sip on local beer or cider.
To add in that dash of history, consider stopping by the Capelton Mine, which opened in 1863.
Along the route, you’ll also find Pub Le Lion d’Or, Quebec’s first microbrewery to use a “handbrewing method.” That’s in Lennoxville, so it’s in a natural position to offer you a breather before you finally complete the Véloroute Gourmande!
After a long ride over a few days, you can then enjoy Sherbrooke, and discover the best the city has to offer. Make sure to set eyes on the trompe-l’oeil murals. You can sip on Sherbrooke’s finest at Siboire Jacques-Cartier, Siboire Depot, Boquébière, or Microbrasserie La Mare au Diable, and grab a bite at Le Vintage 5080, which serve sizeable burgers and “larger than life hotdogs” that also fit in line with a good way to celebrate completing a cycling route!
The Véloroute Gourmande Awaits
Cycling, as far as the eye can see. Photo Credit: Christopher Mitchell
The joy of riding the Véloroute Gourmande was two-fold.
On the one hand, it’s a physical test, and a rewarding one at that. I know that my partner, Bri, genuinely expanded her vision of the sort of routes she could cycle after she showed that this route was one that she could not only do alongside me, but thrive with.
On the other hand, the route offers a treasure trove of cultural experiences. I feel like I walked away with a wealth of knowledge about the local history of each of the places we visited, about each community and region’s take on local cuisine, their cafe culture, and how they approach cycle friendly accommodation.
I’ve cycled a lot. All over Canada, the United States, and Europe, and this stands out as one of my favourite routes I’ve ever tackled, and if you haven’t considered this route prior, but are looking for a lengthy route that isn’t inherently too challenging, yet is remarkably rewarding, then this is the route for you.
Hop on the saddle, support local businesses, and, in between the hills, don’t forget to stop at the viewpoints, take a deep breathe, and savour the little moments which, we all come to realize, are indeed the big moments, in the end.
We want to humbly thank Eastern Townships for hosting us as media. All opinions are completely are own.