The Ultimate Western Sicily Itinerary: How to Spend 10 Days in the West of Sicily

Western Sicily is a little less visited than the east, but that doesn’t mean it’s not worth exploring. In fact, that’s perhaps exactly why it is worth exploring. Historic villages, gorgeous beaches, inviting accommodation, and views for days. TM contributor Jennifer Drobysh reflects on a recent trip, to help you plan your ideal Western Sicily itinerary.

Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro. Photo Credit: Jennifer Drobysh

Follow me through a 9-10 day itinerary in Western Sicily to ancient cities, quiet and secluded beaches and beautiful mountainous and coastal landscapes. I’ve been travelling and living abroad for over 20 years (across 4 continents) and I am always glad to share some tips with fellow travellers to help them on their own journeys.

A trip to Western Sicily is truly a trip unto itself, and differs greatly from more classic routes like Rome to Venice, or Naples to Amalfi.

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Exploring Western Sicily

Tourists usually visit the eastern part of the island, and I am sure it is breathtakingly beautiful (volcanoes, impressive architecture and pristine beaches), but it also comes at a price – mainly, hoards of tourists each summer. And the otherworldly success of the second season of “The White Lotus”, which takes place in Taormina and Noto, won’t make things any better in the future.

(Although, if you are curious about staying in the actual White Lotus hotel in Taormina, you can do so here.)

The great news is that the west offers just the same (without the volcanoes), but on a smaller scale and with so many fewer visitors!

An Overview of the Sicily Itinerary

The journey starts in Palermo, where most planes, trains and buses converge, and then we head west by bus to Castellammare for 2 nights (where you can reach the small town of Scopello which is right by the entrance to the Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro) for a picturesque hike on mountainsides rewarded by a swim in any of the spectacular secluded beaches along the way.

The itinerary then brings you to Trapani (for 2-3 nights), my favourite city in Sicily, featuring an open-air museum, a beach, a good spot for mingling with the locals (and yes, a few tourists, too).

They have a convenient seaport to sail you directly to dreamy Marettimo for a couple of nights. It’s the quietest, furthest and most beautiful of the Egadi Islands, according to many Sicilians.

Upon our return to Trapani, we then pay a visit to Erice, a medieval town worth going to for the astounding views of the countryside and sea down below. Finally we return to Palermo.

For this itinerary, renting a car is not optimal in my opinion, therefore I will be giving bus travel information. You can, of course, spend as much or as little time as you’d like in these destinations, but these were lengths of time that worked for me.

Where Should You Spend Your Time in Sicily’s West?

Below, I’ll go over the highlights of my Sicily itinerary, and explain what each spot has to offer, so you can get the most out of your trip.

Castellammare del Golfo

Castellammare del Golfo is a small town by the sea, and it’s name literally translates to “Sea Fortress on the Gulf.” The town was originally founded by the Greeks in the 5th century BC, so it has a lengthy history. It’s best known today for its 14th century castle built by the Normans, as well as its beautiful beaches and crystal clear water.

It’s a good choice for more reasonably priced accommodation than if you stayed in the more touristy village of Scopello, which is where the Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro trail starts. You can easily reach Castellammare del Golfo from Palermo with the Russo bus company from Piazza Politeama - the stop is right next to the Prada store.

There are daily buses every 15 minutes from 6:20 am to 5:30 pm (6,90 € one-way), but please note that there is no service on Sundays. It takes around 50 minutes to get to Castellammare del Golfo and the bus drops you off at Piazza della Repubblica.

From there, you are about a 10-minute walk to the beautiful B&B Tiziana on via Margherita. The rooms at B&B Tiziana are very comfortable, impeccably clean and all equipped with a refrigerator, WIFI, TV and A/C. They serve a great breakfast, but if you’re hungry after, you can also shop for food at the nearby supermarket (2-minute walk) and prepare your other meals of the day in the vast and fully equipped kitchen available for all guests.

The busy Castellammare Beach is reached on foot in around 20 minutes. If you’re interested in taking a boat tour along the coastline, there are so many great tours of the area that you can find here.

Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro

It’s a very popular hike and you will understand why once you start. You get your money’s worth and so much more (5€ at the entrance gate) in terms of views: the water gushing against the rocks down below takes on all the shades of blue and green you can imagine.

The Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro trail is open everyday from 8 am to 5 pm. The bus from Piazza della Repubblica in Castellammare del Golfo drops you off in Scopello, then you’ll need to walk about 1km to reach the trail (many signs direct you to it in town).

The 7km one-way mainly flat hike boasts two beautiful bigger beaches and some other smaller, more secluded ones, so don’t forget to bring your bathing suit! One of the bigger beaches, at the end of the 7km hike, Cala Dell’uzzo, is really stunning and stopping here allows you to cool down a bit after walking for a while. There are some restrooms right above the beach and they are the only ones you’ll find on the trail.

In the parking lot above this beach, a short-distance walk up, you can buy some snacks and something to drink from a pricey stand. Noting that, you’d be wise to bring enough water and food for the whole 14km hike (7 kilometres there and back), but in case you didn’t, you always have this option.

It gets very hot in Sicily in the summer especially, with temperatures nearing 38-40 degrees regularly, so watch out for heat strokes (speaking from personal experience here)! Wearing some kind of head gear and bringing lots of sunscreen is strongly recommended as there is hardly anywhere you can find shade on the way.

Trapani

Upon arriving to Trapani my first time, I was immediately filled with a good feeling. It’s a mid-sized town surrounded by the sea, which gives it a warm and welcoming feeling, and with only a few people walking the streets.

The bus from Castellammare del Golfo drops you at the limit between the new and the old town, and as you start walking through the narrow streets of the old-town, the charm turns up a notch: Baroque and Art Nouveau palazzi and churches abound— you just need to be careful not to bump into people, as you will always be looking up at the delightful facades, or through some arches to take a peek at the beautiful courtyards.

Your first stop will be Il Vecchio Messina B&B, which is located at the heart of Trapani’s old town on corso Vittorio Emanuele II. You’ll need to go up a few flights of stairs in this old palazzo before you get to meet the charming owner. She only speaks Italian, but nonetheless always goes out of her way to help you. The B&B is clean with outdated furniture and it only has shared bathrooms, but rooms are spacious and comfortable for the price (remember you are in the very centre of Old Trapani, right on the main street).

The city beach is parallel to the B&B, one street away, and the port also, but 3-4 streets away, going the opposite way.

You’ll be happy to know that the best wine bar is conveniently located right in front of Il Vecchio Messina! On a narrow and quiet, small space, mainly filled with barrels of amazing local wines (all from the Trapani region), Tenute Adragna sets out a few chairs and cushions to sit outside along the sidewalk. The reasonably priced wines attract locals and tourists alike in this very pleasant atmosphere, where everyone mingles with everyone else until closing time.

If you’re hungry, you can order at the famous Pizzeria Calvino nearby and eat at the bar, if you don’t feel like going elsewhere for dinner. But if you do, Antichi Sapori serves up the best seafood couscous in Sicily.

Western Sicily is also sometimes called “African Sicily,” and you can experience it through some popular dishes like the Trapani specialty “panelle” (triangle shaped fried flat “bread” made with chick pea flour). I’d recommend trying it at the popular Rosticceria Al Pollo da Roberto, in the new part of town.

If you feel like exercising and getting out of town, you may visit the beautiful salt plains at the Riserva Naturale Saline di Trapani, which is about a 15 kilometre bike ride away. You will find many bike rental shops near the port in old Trapani.

If you’re interested in taking tours around town or to places a little further from town while you’re in Trapani, you can find an array of excellent local guided tours of Trapani here.

Marettimo

Small white and blue houses against a rocky mountain backdrop greet you as you disembark the speedboat (called “Aliscafo” with Liberty Lines) that you took from the Trapani port a little over an hour before (one-way tickets between 18€ and 23€).

With a population of just under 700 inhabitants, this quaint town and its people will no doubt charm you within the first minutes: everyone knows everyone, and you will rapidly sense the island laid-back feel.

The port is part of the village, and there are about three narrow streets that directly stretch out from it. In terms of accommodation, I strongly recommend I Delfini, a beautiful all white and blue (inside and out) B&B owned by a charming family. The breakfasts, served on the terrace overlooking the sea (or inside if too windy), are homemade, delicious and vary from day to day. They ask that the guests stay at least two nights, but why wouldn’t you? You also might want to ask for the room with a sea view and then you’ll never want to leave!

Be aware that boats are sensitive to the weather so if it’s windy and you are supposed to sail that day, the boat might not leave. There is always the less frequent big ferry option, slower but sturdier.

In terms of food, you can buy all the best that Sicily has to offer at “Salumeria La Cambusa”, a 1-minute walk from the B&B: Sausages, cheeses, caponata, bottles of wine and so much more. And for a night out, there is the excellent seaside restaurant , Il Veliero, which you can see from the terrace at I Delfini.

For an afternoon of “farniente” (or relaxation), Marettimo island offers spectacular beaches, albeit mostly rocky (but it is what makes them beautiful), and they’re reachable by foot in around 10 minutes. Bring sandals as the pebbles can get scorching hot and the seabed might hurt your feet when you go swimming.

Boat rides around the island and through stunning caves are a very enjoyable way to discover the rest of Marettimo, which is not accessible otherwise. You can conveniently book a trip through the I Delfini B&B, any other agency at the sea port, or by exploring the options for tours here.

Don’t forget to bring some sunscreen and your bathing suit, but the boat tour organisers provide snorkelling gear if you don’t have yours.

Erice

You could decide to spend another night or two in Trapani upon your return from Marettimo, just to give yourself a day to go up to this medieval town. If you’ve already been to a medieval town, the only real difference, notable though, is the splendid view you get from different angles on the landscape and sea below.

There are buses from the centre of Trapani (right by the post office) that bring you to the cable car, which I strongly recommend. Buses do go all the way to the top, but the views cannot be compared. Plus, when do we get a chance to ride a cable car? Make sure to get the return ticket as it is a bit cheaper than two one-way tickets.

Maps of the town are available at the information kiosk as you get off the cable car, which can be useful when you want to get to the outer city walls for the views. You may even want to find a shaded spot and just take in the views, draw and/or meditate if you feel inspired to do so!

If you’re interested in taking a tour to Erice instead, you can find several incredible guided tours here.

Western Sicily Awaits!

And our short Western Sicily itinerary ends here, and I hope it’s been useful! You can choose to go back to Palermo and spend a few more days exploring what the city has to offer, or perhaps deepen your exploration of Sicily’s west with a visit to the ancient ruins of Segesta and Selinunte. Or, perhaps you’re on to explore other parts of Europe!

Whether you're interested in history, architecture, nature, or simply soaking up the Mediterranean sun, Western Sicily has something to offer. It's no wonder that this region has become a popular tourist destination in recent years, and it's definitely worth a visit for anyone seeking an authentic and unforgettable travel experience.