The Top Things to Do in Franklin, Tennessee: A Rich History, An Exciting Present, A Promising Future
I got into travel writing because I wanted to learn, and Franklin, Tennessee ended up being an almost unparalleled beacon of learning for me when it comes to US travel. Warmth and hospitality was readily found, it was a photographer’s dream in many respects, and no meal (or sip) felt wasted. The stories here run deep, and you can find them everywhere from historic houses and Civil War battle grounds, to live music venues, where it felt like every song had some sort of allusion to what makes this city tick.
Street art is everywhere in Franklin. Finding (and happening upon it) is part of the journey. Photo Credit: Christopher Mitchell
Franklin was everything that we had hoped it would be — a place for us to further understand and engage with American history, a hip city with innovative cafes and restaurants, a music mecca where there seemed to be a show every night, and a place to base ourselves to explore a surrounding region that broadened our horizons on a myriad of levels.
It’s the sort of place where, simply judging from a map or the city’s population size, you might think you can tackle it all in a short period of time, but I can assure you that, once you arrive, you’re going to realize that there’s a tremendous amount to see and do here. If you want to do it right, you’re going to need time, so add a day or two to what you might have set aside during your American travels (and thank us later).
It’s a place that punches well above its weight, and has a clear understanding of its importance in the broader story of America - its past, its present, and its future.
Bri and I have had the immense pleasure of travelling across the US quite a bit, and the visit to Franklin holds a special place in our heart. That’s credit to a lot of what I’ve already insinuated — largely that it’s a place to come and have fun, and to belt out songs alongside the person on stage, guitar in hand (while you might have a craft beer or whiskey in yours), but it’s also a place ripe for reflection and contemplation. To come and think about what it was like here for a multitude of people (of different factions, races, and social statuses), and what people fought for and is worth fighting for.
You will get out of this visit what you put into it. So come prepared to play historian, sociologist, restaurant reviewer, and music aficionado, and watch as this city unfolds before you.
A Brief History of Franklin, Tennessee
You could write a novel about the history of Franklin, Tennessee (and in fact, many have), but my goal here is largely to provide you with the context you’ll need to comprehend the significance of this unique southern city.
Firstly, Franklin is the county seat of Williamson County, Tennessee and is located a little over 20 miles (just under 35 kilometres) from Nashville. It has a population of around 85,000, but as I noted prior, it punches well above it's weight for a city its size. It would be a big mistake to think of Franklin as a mere suburb of its larger neighbour (and a big on at that). The city has a history (and vibe) all its own, and a commitment to sharing that history in a way that prioritizes fact over fiction, truth over fable.
I mention that because Bri and I have had the pleasure, especially over the past few years, to explore the American south in greater depth, and it’s become clear that some destinations urge visitors to only focus on the southern charm, which implicitly suggests that you should, at the same time, ignore the history that comes along with it.
Founded in 1799 and named after Benjamin Franklin, the city quickly became a key hub in the early days of Tennessee’s statehood. It’s tree lined streets and remarkably well preserved architecture are nods to the importance of this city in years past, first as an agricultural centre, and then for its significance during the Civil War.
I do want to note that it would also be a mistake to only think of Franklin through the lens of the Civil War, but as far as I’m concerned, it would be a greater mistake to ignore it entirely, and that’s why any traveller here should have a basic understanding of the Battle of Franklin, one of the bloodiest of the entire Civil War.
I will recommend down below that you visit sites like the Carnton and Carter House (which served as makeshift hospitals during the conflict) to get a full understanding of the importance of this battle, but, for context, this battle was part of the larger Franklin-Nashville Campaign, as Confederate General John Bell Hood attempted to reclaim territory in Tennessee from Union forces under General John Schofield.
Hood attempted to strike a decisive blow before winter, regardless of how well fortified the Union positions in Franklin were, and the result was catastrophic. In just five hours, over 6000 Confederate soldiers (including 6 generals), and around 2500 Union men lost their lives. This battle changed (or at least fortified) the direction of the war, and American history along with it.
So understand that history, but not at the expense of its present. Franklin is a beacon of culture and entertainment, with a lively main strip that seems to always be hosting a festival (or to have one on the nearby horizon), some excellent shopping, and southern hospitality in droves.
One last note - as a Canadian travel writer, I have put an enormous amount of time into researching the Civil War, and some of the difficult history that comes along with it, and I fully acknowledge that it’s not necessarily my voice that should be listened to when there are so many esteemed experts who have dedicated their lives to this history. I’m not the arbiter of right and wrong, of that I’m certain, but I do know when a destination aims to acknowledge the complexity of the past, of their history, by offering a multitude of viewpoints, and I applaud Franklin for doing just that.
Franklin is a destination where you will leave with innumerable photos that ooze with southern charm, tunes that will be stuck in your head seemingly for time eternal, and where, hopefully, you’ll begin to understand that, as human beings, we so often find ourselves in positions of division, be that in the way we look, or what we believe in, but that the key to reconciliation lies in education, and visiting places that showcase stories and provide moments for us to empathize in the fullest possible sense with that innate humanity in all of us.
*Please note that this article contains affiliate links. Simply put, this means we may receive a small commission for some of our honest recommendations at no additional cost to you.
What to Do in Franklin, TN
Explore Downtown Franklin
I did what I always do when I arrive in a new destination — drop my bags off at the hotel (I’ll get to our lovely accommodation shortly), and orient myself with the city by walking through the heart of the city.
For your own adventure, I’d first take a look at the Digital Passports offered for free from Franklin. As a lover of history and street art, I used the “Great American Main Street” passport, as well as the “Murals of Willamson County” passport to help guide me. Then, of course, before long, I was tempted by the “Masters & Makers” options, and Bri and I certainly made use of the “Sweet Treats Trail” as well!
If you aren’t as big on independent exploration (which is totally fine, by the way), The Franklin Hop, a hop-on, hop-off trolley bus experience, which has 5 stops across 8 hours (if you’re doing it in its entirety), may be a great option.
Personally, I appreciate having a loose plan, and letting any small businesses catch my eye, then heading on in. If you’re a lover of bookstores, I would not miss the chance to head into Landmark Booksellers, a classic southern bookstore run by Joel & Carroll Tomlin, whom we had the chance to meet, and they’re about as welcoming as it comes. If I lived in Franklin, I’m fairly sure I’d be here daily.
White’s Mercantile was another fun shop to embrace that southern feel, and the shop is actually owned by Holly Williams, daughter of Hank Williams Jr. Somehow or another, it all seems to come back to music in Franklin!
The Franklin Theatre is another can’t miss spot to nab a photo, but you should also see what’s playing. It was originally built in 1937 as a classic movie house, but was renovated in 2007, and now is considered one of the top 300 seat music venues on the planet.
I’m a big believer in letting what interests you guide you — everyone’s visit to a city should be their own in some way, after all — but I would urge you to spend some time in Franklin’s Public Square, where you’ll find the March to Freedom Statue & Fuller Story Markers. Around the confederate monument, right on Main Street, you’ll find five historical markers which aim to tell “the fuller story” of all the history that happened in Franklin’s Public Square including slave markets, race riots, the Battle of Franklin, and freed slaves signing up at the courthouse to fight in the US Colored Troop division of the army.
In 2021, the “March to Freedom” statue was added to honour the USCT soldiers, and it’s one of only 6 in the nation, and the only one displayed in a public square of a city.
Visit the Factory at Franklin
It’s not easy for city’s to pull off turning what was once industrial into legitimate commercial spaces, but that’s precisely what’s happened here — and it’s first class.
In 1929, an enormous stove manufacturing plant, Dortch Stove Works, stood here. Eventually, they made bedding and furniture here as well, and it was deemed important enough in 1997 to be listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Renovations on this site started around the same time, and eventually “The Factory at Franklin” started to take shape.
Bri and I embraced the chance to do some shopping for loved ones (The Made in TN shop is great for that), grab a drink at the nifty bar, grab a bite to eat (we chose The White Alligator and ate some delicious po-boys), and more. There are also some entertainment options here as well, and I’d recommend taking a look at events that are going on here during your visit.
In 2021, a new owner came on board, and we could see renovations under way to ensure this place keeps getting better and better. I’d definitely find the time to come visit. By the way, this would be another vote for wanting to ensure you have a vehicle when you’re visiting Franklin. There’s a lot within a very short drive, but some of those very short drives would be quite long walks!
Treat Yourself to a Stay at the Harpeth hotel
The Harpeth Franklin Downtown (a Curio Collection Hotel from Hilton) would have to be in the conversation as one of the finest hotels in the state of Tennessee. It’s located on the banks of the Harpeth River, in historic Downtown Franklin, and everything they do suggests that they want to be a beacon of what great accommodation can be in the present, while respecting the stories of the past.
As they note on their website, “we are built on stories.”
There are 119 thoughtfully designed guest rooms and suites, the 1799 Kitchen & Cocktails, McGavock’s Coffee Bar, a fitness centre, a stunning courtyard and more. Clearly, the whole property is about honouring the historic nature of the site and city, while providing an experience that lives up to the present day standards of luxury, which they do in spades.
In terms of how we wanted to explore the city, I would also say that you’d be hard-pressed to find a better location.
If you’d like to see a range of the properties available, I’ve put together a map for you as well.
Appreciate some of Franklin’s best restaurants
Like most cities in the south, food is a critical part of engaging with the local culture. Beyond just the food itself, I also want to note that the hospitality we experienced here was exceptional. Nobody knew that we were visiting their respective restaurants with the intention of writing about them, yet we (and the tables around us) were treated like we mattered. Think bottomless coffee, another beer offered before you’ve finished your last sip, and portion sizes which ensure that you’re not going to leave a destination hungry.
Here are a few of the spots that you’ll want to have on your radar:
Biscuit Love: Would you judge me if I told you that I still dream about their biscuits and sausage gravy? I’m not even being verbose here — their slightly peppery, unbelievably savoury sausage gravy is the best I’ve tried yet. Biscuit Love started as a Nashville food truck, but it’s now a Franklin breakfast haven. This bright, welcoming spot aims to serve Southern classics with a modern twist. Their star is the “East Nasty” (love the name) — a towering biscuit with fried chicken, cheddar, and sausage gravy— aka Southern comfort on a plate. And don’t skip the “Bonuts” (biscuit-donut hybrids) topped with lemon mascarpone and blueberry compote. They’re an indulgent yet somehow perfect breakfast treat that Bri and I couldn’t resist.
Gray’s on Main: Occupying a historic building that once housed a 19th-century pharmacy, Gray’s on Main is more than a restaurant, it’s a piece of living history. You can feel the character of the old bones of the place, from the exposed brick to the faint echo of live music filtering through the second floor. Gray’s offers a Southern-inspired menu, and a cocktail selection that draws on Tennessee’s heritage as a hub for whiskey. Food wise, you can’t go wrong with classics like their fried green tomatoes or shrimp and grits, but their cocktails (especially of the whiskey variety) are just otherworldly. Do yourself a favour, and get the “Anthym Spirit,” rightfully voted the South’s best whiskey drink. To me, this is a “can’t miss” sort of spot when you’re visiting Franklin. Also, now that I think about it, I would not leave here without tasting their bacon wrapped figs or honey roasted brussell sprouts.
55 South: Before we get into what 55 South is all about, let me cut to the chase and tell you that you need to come here and get the “Bag O Shrimp.” It’s what it sounds like — divine. Named after the highway that connects Memphis to New Orleans, 55 South brings the best of Southern comfort food to the heart of Franklin. Chef Jason McConnell is a local legend, known for creating dishes that celebrate both Franklin’s heritage and the wider Southern culinary landscape. If you can’t be convinced to try the Bag O’ Shrimp (and what a shame that would be), then get the po' boy—it’s all about balance: crispy seafood, fresh bread, and a zing of homemade sauce. The gumbo also deserves a shoutout, served thick and hearty, with every bite transporting you straight to a Louisiana bayou.
Other spots to consider include Red Pony (also by chef Jason McConnell), Merridee’s Breadbasket, Whitney’s Cookies (if you’re looking to prioritize that sweet tooth like we were), Cork & Cow, or get some more classic pub fare at O’ Be Joyful or McCreary’s Irish Pub. The last two are also good nighttime options.
Get a Feel for Franklin NIghtlife
So, there are a number of spots that I’d recommend, but above all, I’d put Kimbro’s Pickin’ Parlor at the top. Tucked away in an old house, Kimbro’s offers nightly live music in a cozy, eclectic setting. The sort of bar where you’re pleasantly surprised they take card, because you wouldn’t be shocked if they said it was cash only.
You’ll find everything from bluegrass jams to singer-songwriters, all accompanied by a relaxed crowd, cold beer, and the occasional jam session that spills into the backyard. It’s a vibe that I haven’t seen anywhere else, as they don’t claim to be something their not, but rather embrace precisely who they are.
On a return to Franklin (which I can only hope will happen before long), this is where I’m spending night number one.
For a more intimate, laid back night, consider Stable Reserve. Housed in a beautifully restored stable, this bar and lounge specializes in handcrafted cocktails and a carefully curated selection of Tennessee whiskeys. Plus, it’s located in an old stable — that’s just cool to me. Think exposed wood beams, vintage decor, and a cozy environment.
Not everyone loves whiskey (I’m not upset I’m not of that number), but all joking aside, if you want something different, then perhaps consider JJ’s Wine Bar. It’s a self-serve wine bar where you can sample as you please (something I love as an avid user of Vivino), and it’s located right on Main Street.
Honestly, with nightlife, don’t overthink it. Walk up and down Main Street, peering into some of the nightlife mainstays and see what catches your eye (or, in the case of Franklin, your ear). There’s really not a bad choice to be made.
By the way, if live music is your thing, we’ve put together an entire article on live music in Franklin!
Take the time to understand the implications of the battle of franklin
It’s clear to me now, the Battle of Franklin changed US history as we know it. Do not leave this city without putting in the time to understand how and why.
Three main sites that Civil War history buffs (and folks generally interested in American history or military history) will want to prioritize are Lotz House, Carter House, and Carnton. They’re all located relatively close to each other, and all bear still bear the scars of the war.
This will be far too brief, but to give a quick overview, The Carter House Historic Site is a historic house which tells the story of the Carter family, but it’s also a place that served as an army headquarters. The Lotz House was an epicentre of sorts during the battle, and much of the house was blasted away, but it eventually served as a field hospital as soldiers were wounded.
Bri and I decided that we would do the 90 minute guided tour at the Carnton. Let me just say, the tour guide that we had here was absolutely excellent. This is not an easy tour to give — the guide has to be play the role of the objective historian, and that’s not easy to do when you’re talking about the Civil War in the south, as well as enslaved peoples. The guide, to his credit, did a brilliant job (and I say that as a former tour guide and educator myself).
Carnton was situated about a mile from the Union Army’s eastern flank, and as the battle unfolded, it too became a field hospital, with four Confederate generals eventually being laid out on the back porch after losing their lives in the battle (and 6 generals in total on the southern side losing their lives in the Battle of Franklin alone). We’re talking about walking around a house where you can visibly see that this was a field hospital, blood stains and all — a place primarily serving Confederate soldiers, but also where some Union soldiers took their last breaths as well.
For a Canadian with a deep curiosity and love for history, this was a moving place to be. This was a place to understand how war moves like a dust storm, often swallowing civilian factions (and farm houses and plantations) along the way. It’s a place of pain, suffering and confusion…and the education they provide here aims to showcase how it all came to a head here, with no shortage of context to enable individuals with varying knowledge about the Civil War to partake.
After the tour, we walked the grounds, and eventually set eyes on the McGavock Confederate Cemetery. This, by the way, is the largest privately owned military cemetery in the United States. I have my own associations and understandings of what the Confederate flag represents, so I won’t lie that I found it unsettling to see so many flags waving upon the graves, but I also recognize that it’s more damaging to simply pretend that they weren’t there at all.
So we stood there and took it all in. What else can one do?
After we returned to Downtown Franklin, I went to Landmark Booksellers and perused titles from their extensive Civil War collection, and I bought books that I felt would help me better help me digest what I had learned and seen, including The Widow of the South, a best selling novel by Robert Hicks, which covers the life of Carrie McGavock, who lived at Carnton during the Civil War.
It’s difficult in a lot of ways to walk the grounds where so much blood was spilled, some of which can still be seen, as I mentioned, but it is my firm belief that it is my job (and our job as human beings) to leverage that feeling of discomfort, and to turn that into a desire to learn and challenge viewpoints that lead people to believe that one life is more valuable than another — to combat our natural inclination towards ignorance, as ignorance has always been the fuel that keeps the flames of war so well lit.
Take Note of Events happening in the city
While we were in Franklin, we were fortunate enough to be there on the first Friday of the month, and that means we were able to experience the Franklin Art Crawl, which was a city wide event gave us the perfect excuse to better acquaint ourselves with not just Franklin’s galleries, working studios and stores, but the owners of those businesses, many of which were serving refreshments and food.
The trolley runs throughout the event, by the way, in case you’re looking for some assistance in your explorations.
Upon further research, and after talking to the Visit Franklin team, it’s clear that this event wasn’t a one-off, but rather a microcosm for the way in which Franklin uses events to help locals and visitors alike experience the best of the city.
When you’re visiting, I’d strongly recommend looking at the Franklin Events Calendar. As they themselves note, this is the key way to “experience Franklin to the fullest,” and go on to say, rightfully so, that “no matter what time of year you visit, there’s no shortage of things to do in Franklin! From annual street festivals to unforgettable music events, come experience the warmth of Franklin’s Southern hospitality for yourself.”
By the way, there is always something going on in Franklin. For lifelong learners (and genuinely curious individuals) like Bri and I, it was comforting to have this page bookmarked and to know that we could take part in something pretty much any day that would lead us closer to the heartbeat of Franklin.
Oh, and take note of when the famed Franklin Farmers Market is on (typically Saturdays in the warmer months), as it’s noted as being representative of a “true Tennessee farmers market” experience.
Get a Unique Feel for the Art Scene at Gallery 202
Located in what is often described as one of Franklin’s most beautiful historic homes (Clouston Hall, built in 1821), this very much feels like an art gallery that’s taken over a home. The building itself has a story — it once served as a Civil War hospital, and its architecture is stunning, with elegant hardwood floors, original fireplaces, and high ceilings that showcase its early 19th-century charm.
Inside, you’ll find everything from fine crafts to sculptures, paintings to jewelry. Why I love it is that it’s a showcase of local and regional artists. If I’ve learned anything over my decades of travel, it’s that local artists need a stage (and representation) to make a living, and I’d argue that’s the lifeblood of Gallery 202.
It’s not a pretentious place by any means, and you can find it in the heart of Franklin. It’s another spot in the city where modern culture and history intersect. You don’t have to feel pressure to stay a long time there, but it is a place that I’d recommend popping into when you’re visiting Franklin.
Peruse some of Franklin’s Parks
Sometimes it’s nice to just be in nature, so I wanted to offer a few options here.
Pinkerton Park offers riverside trails, playgrounds, and picnic spots, with a quick hike up Fort Granger Trail to see Civil War markers and views of downtown. Harlinsdale Farm, once a famous horse farm, now has open fields, walking paths, and a dog park, often hosting community events and concerts. Nearby, The Park at Harlinsdale Farm is smaller and quieter, with fishing and shaded areas for a laid-back nature walk.
For history enthusiasts, Fort Granger Park features remnants of a Union fort and trails with scenic overlooks. Just south of town, Winstead Hill Park offers Civil War memorials, walking paths, and a viewpoint over Franklin’s landscape, providing a peaceful and reflective space.
Oh, and it’s likely worth noting that Jim Warren Park may be an easy spot to get some energy out if you’ve got some active young ones in tow as they have sports fields and playgrounds on offer.
What Else Should Be on Your List in the Surrounding Area?
Think of Franklin as your hub, and lean into the idea that there are some spokes that jut out from the city that are worth exploring.
You absolutely need to make the time to visit Leiper’s Fork. We believe in that sentiment so strongly that we actually wrote an entire article just about Leiper’s Fork! Leiper’s Fork is a scenic, artsy village just a short drive from Franklin. Do yourself a favour and head to Fox & Locke on Thursday night for their famous open mic night. It was easily one of the highlights of our trip! Take time before getting your fix for live music to visit local businesses and shops. We spent a couple of hours popping in and out of galleries (like Leiper’s Creek Gallery and David Arms Gallery), visiting candy shops, and pretty much any business that was leaning into the southern vibe. This is a special, special place. Do not miss it.
For wine lovers, Arrington Vineyards is a must. Co-owned by country music star Kix Brooks, this beautiful vineyard offers tastings, picnic areas, and rolling hills with views perfect for relaxing. Honestly, the views are spectacular! Visitors can bring their own food or pick up cheese and charcuterie at the vineyard (that’s what we did), and enjoy live music on weekends while sipping local wines. We ended up getting a flight of red, and a flight of white, largely so we could try as much of what was on offer as possible (and because I’m a bit obsessed about expanding what wines I’ve tried on Vivino).
The Natchez Trace Parkway is a scenic drive that stretches through Tennessee, Alabama, and Mississippi, with access points near Franklin. This historic trail offers stunning views, hiking opportunities, and sites like Birdsong Hollow with its double-arch bridge and overlooks. We used our visit here as an excuse to work up a sweat and get in some exercise before heading back into Franklin in the early afternoon to eat to our heart’s content with plenty of southern comfort food. We actually drove straight from here to Gray’s on Main, and even congratulated ourself on our hiking efforts with a touch of Tennessee whiskey…because why not?
One last thing worth mentioning — If you’ve got a week in Franklin, let’s say, then you could also concievably take day trips south to Columbia or north to Nashville.
Franklin, TN Awaits
It’s powerful as a person, let alone a travel writer, to arrive in a destination under the pretence that you have much to learn. Before we set off for Franklin, both Bri and I sat down to consider where our blind spots were, and what we needed to do to amend those blind spots, and this, I feel, is very much the basis of this article.
And learn we did.
We learned that Franklin is an ideal place to position yourself if you want to understand the depth and intricacies of the Civil War. That Franklin has this beautiful interplay between classic, southern American architecture, yet through street art and the like, that there’s this impressive countercultural artistic current to be found if you’re looking for it.
That food is at the forefront of their hospitality, and historic accommodation can be found at the ready. That the surrounding area is full of surprises and stories — and music, and wine, craft beer.
We got a sense that the local community knows how special this place is, and they’re inspired to see that you too can see what they see.
On the surface, you might think that it’s just a place to snap a picture or two and to sip on some of the best whiskey you’ll ever taste (no word of a lie), and all that is great if that’s what you want to do. But, if there’s anything that I hope I’ve communicated, it’s that this is a place to dive deep.
I can rarely remember a place with so many knowledgeable guides and tours, because Franklin also knows that for every person that comes just for the whiskey, someone else is coming to better comprehend America at large, particularly as it relates to the Civil War, and I’d love to think that, perhaps more than any other city I’ve visited, Franklin is committed to showcasing (especially from a tourism lens), a place where you can learn objectively about stories that are so much larger than our own.
At every restaurant, every bar, every museum, we somehow always felt “at home,” despite being two people from north of the border.
Franklin, I can say with certainty, is a city that I’d love to revisit, because I readily accept that there are more stories I need to hear and understand, more meals that I need to have, more music that I have to listen to, and, of course, more whiskey that needs to be sipped.
I left Franklin, grateful to have spent some quality time there, and with this strong sense that what I found here, well — it simply can’t quite be found anywhere else.
We want to thank Visit Franklin for hosting us as media. All thoughts and opinions are completely our own.