Double Arrow Lodge near Seeley Lake, Montana: A Historic Lodge in the Heart of the Rocky Mountains
Double Arrow Lodge, also known as Double Arrow Resort, is nestled into the heart of the Seeley Swan Valley, and surrounded by picturesque mountains. For over 75 years, they’ll been helping guests tap into Western Montana’s rugged wilderness, while simultaneously offering a charming, historic home away from home.
Outside the Main Lodge, built in the 1930s.
In this day and age, the allure of wide open spaces, of genuine escape, has never been greater. Sometimes, we don’t know how badly we need to find a place to reset and take a deep breath until we get there , and we’re surrounded by humbling mountains, and trails that we could conceivably walk (or snowshoe) all day.
I recently had the chance to better explore the area around Seeley Lake after visiting Missoula (about an hour’s drive away), and I connected with the place almost immediately, especially the property at Double Arrow.
There’s something about staying in a historic lodge, eating home-cooked meals, listening to local musicians, and spending your days outdoors that has the affect of helping you charge your batteries once again. The landscape, I also might add, has this beautiful way of placing you firmly in the present, leaving you ready to heed the quiet lessons that are woven into your surroundings.
A Brief History of the Double Arrow Lodge
The Early Days
In the 1920s, when this establishment first opened its doors, it was actually a dude ranch - the first commercial dude ranch to be locate at Seeley Lake, I might add.
Three log cabins were moved from the Trail Creek area, and then work began on the ranch buildings. What was built then is what still stands today, and don’t worry, they’ve been renovated since an they’re plenty warm. In fact, there’s rarely a time in winter when there’s not a fire burning in the Main Lodge, welcoming passersby to come and take a seat, and perhaps to share a story.
Horses began to be purchased over time, and breeding horses became a focus while the business was being grown in the 20s and 30s. The depression, as you might imagine, was a difficult time. The county even eventually contracted Double Arrow to house unemployed lumberjacks and the ranch kitchen, once used to serve high-end meals to guests, began to simply be a place to feed all the men who were out of work.
The ranch also provided some work for local people, but by the time WWII struck, the business wasn’t sustainable and one of the original owners, Jan Boissevain, auctioned off the ranch.
The NExt Chapter
The decades after WWII saw this place change hands multiple times. Some owners found it difficult to heat the place with firewood, to keep up the original buildings, or to raise cattle here.
Finally in 1970, Herb Richards, president of Life of Montana bought the place, and he got to work restoring the buildings, and also adding a well, plumbing, wiring and roofing. In the late 1970s, it was sold back to Jack Rich (the son of previous owners), and the Rich family operated it until 1989.
They noted that “all of us were taken with the romance of the old buildings, the mountain setting, the history of Jan and so on. I know that was the case with all of our family.”
Towards the Present Day
In 1989, a group of six couples from the Seattle area (all with Montana roots) purchased the lodge. The property was updated, while ensuring they maintained its rustic charm, of course. New units were added and in 1994, a golf course was added as well.
These owners also focused on the dining experience, something I can attest to after having had many meals there. Eventually, the Double Arrow Barn was moved to become the Seeley Lake Historical Museum and Visitor Centre, which is only a short drive away from the property.
History is great for context, but let’s take a look at what today’s experience looks like for visitors.
Lodging Options
Below, I’ll run through your lodging options. Just so you can visualize where the lodging options are on the property, I’ll embed a little map for you.
There’s actually a huge amount on offer here - lodges divided into individual units, standalone log cabins, full sized lodges for groups and more.
Personally, I chose to stay in the Main Lodge, which has three rooms. I wanted to stay in the Main Lodge because it had more of a bed and breakfast style feel to it, and because I’d have easy access to the Great Room with its calming stone fireplace that I quickly learned ends of being a beacon for people to gather around.
One night during dinner, a group of about ten musicians gathered around the fire and proceeded to play a night of music I’ll never forget. It’s hard, sitting around that fire with the music playing and the voices all in such effortless unison, to not feel like you’re part of something.
Jamming out in the Main Lodge.
As far as I know, they try to have music rolling through the Double Arrow at least once a week and, if I remember correctly, usually on Tuesdays.
Of course, you have access to the Great Room and the Main Lodge wherever you’re staying, but I liked the idea of being in the heart of the action. It was also neat to remember that the rooms of the Main Lodge once housed esteemed guests, including European dignitaries.
Here are some other options:
Chain of Lakes Cabins: The newest cabins at the time of writing. 5 cabins named after local lakes that all have a king bed, a sitting area with a view, a gas log fireplace, washer/dryer and more.
If you’re looking for something that’s historic in nature, and dates back to the early days (though has since been renovated and modernized), I’d check out the Aspen Cabin, the Western Cabin, the Mission View Cabin (restored with 1930 era logs), or the Tamarack Cabins. Heritage Cabins #9-11 were built by the original Double Arrow owners, Jan Boissevain and George Wiesel.
If you’re looking for something a little different, the Ponderosa Cabin (with a fireplace and loft) is the only building on the resort that’s built entirely of spruce logs.
The Clearwater Lodge is a complete, two bedroom log home that’s rustic yet comfortable.
If it’s a full complete house you’re after, I’d go with the Cougar Cottage. It has three bedrooms and a full deck if you’re looking to stay in summer. The sunsets would be pretty astounding.
The Hilltop Lodge was where the first owners lived, and it was completely redone around twenty years ago. And now it has wifi - imagine that.
If you’re here for a conference, there are some rooms in the lower level of the Blackfoot Conference Centre as well.
The Deer Lodge is the newest log cabin home and it has 5 master suite bedrooms. If you’re looking to really have an unforgettable vacation, this would be the lodge to book.
Activities Galore
During The Warmer months at Double Arrow
In terms of outdoor recreation at Double Arrow, it’s pretty much a “if you can dream it, you can do it” type situation.
For one, the 18 hole golf course is considered one of the premiere golf courses in Montana. You’ll have the Swan Mountains to your east, and the Mission Mountains to your west, which makes holes like number 15, with an elevated tee and island green, pretty spectacular.
Hiking is a big draw as well, with most people opting to take the trail to Morrell Falls (about 5 miles there and back), or walking along the edge of Holland Lake.
Horseback riding is also on offer. As Double Arrow politely notes, “A trip to Montana just doesn’t seem complete without a one on one interaction with a horse.” I wasn’t able to go horseback riding, but I did get to have some special interactions with horses at the Horse Corral on the property. Conestoga Wagon Rides are popular as well.
Fishing, biking, rafting and some more concerted efforts on wildlife viewing are also all on the docket for lovers of the outdoors.
During The Colder months at Double Arrow
If you haven’t tried snowmobiling before, this might be the place to do it, as they’re well connected to local operators.
I’d strongly recommend either borrowing a pair of snowshoes (I know I sure did), or doing some cross-country skiing. It’s a nice, relatively easy way to cover some ground and experience a variety of viewpoints that are all around the property.
If downhill skiing is more your thing, there are a number of ski hills that are within a two hour drive, if not closer, and offer some excellent skiing (at a quite reasonable cost).
One major draw for winter - their horse drawn sleigh rides.
“During the winter months, our meadows are the perfect place to enjoy a nostalgic horse drawn sleigh ride with your group or that special someone. The horse drawn sleigh ride leaves directly from the Main Lodge. Enjoy hot chocolate in the Great Hall of the Main Lodge before or after the ride or enjoy a leisurely drink from the lounge in front of the fireplace. The campfire overlooking the meadow provides the perfect setting to enjoy the beauty and tranquility of a Montana winter.”
The Horse Corral on the property.
Double Arrow Dining
The Main Lodge is a cool 5000 square feet in size, and within that lodge, you’ll find Seasons Restaurant. Their sandwiches for lunch are hearty, delicious and filling, and during dinner, they switch into fine dining mode.
I personally had the Gorgonzola Bread as an appetizer (seriously, don’t miss this, especially as it’s served with gorgonzola butter as well), and the Truffle Roasted Risotto with Chicken for my main dish. I was very impressed, and of course washed it all down with a local Scepter IPA.
They’ve got a nice selection of local beer, and a surprisingly impressive wine list - one which has recieved the Wine Spectator’s Award of Excellence, actually.
Stirrups Lounge is a place to grab a beverage in between meals if you’re so inclined. Oh, and I’d be remiss to not mention that breakfast is also stellar. The Breakfast Burrito is a filling option to take out the door with you if you’re in a rush heading out to the lake, course, or trail.
Any Season, Any Approach
I loved visiting Double Arrow in the winter - something about the wood-fire roaring after coming in from a day of outdoor activities, with cheeks redder than the embers. However, as a biking and cycling enthusiast (and no stranger to golf), I can see the allure of the warmer months as well.
It strikes me that whenever you go, the lodge becomes this home away from home while you venture into the outdoors, taking advantage of the lodge’s unique location. That being said, if you want to come up here and stay in the Main Lodge the whole time, nobody is going to give you flack for that either.
Your trip, your way - and one that, at least for me, was unlike any other I’d taken. I came here on my own, but the staff welcomed me in like family, and conversations were easy to come by. I left filled with the warmth of my interactions here, and with a strong connection to the history of the property, and the almost ethereal landscape.
I want to humbly thank the Glacier Country Montana for hosting me as media. All opinions are completely my own.
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