A Winery Lunch at Casa Bermellon: An Unforgettable Meal in Argentina's Mendoza Wine Region
We ate a lot of memorable meals while we were in Argentina, but the most memorable meal was one we stumbled upon near Maipu, in the wine region just outside the city of Mendoza. Bri walks us through what made the meal so special, and how you can visit the next time you’re in Argentina!
Finding yourself on a trip to Argentina is an adventure for the senses. From the excitement of hiking through the Andes and Patagonia, to the rushing water of Iguazu Falls, to the late-night jazz and tango in a bar in Buenos Aires, Argentinians know how to live.
Regardless of what adventures you’re seeking on a trip to Argentina, one of the crown jewels of South America, spending some time exploring the bodegas and wineries of Mendoza is an absolute must on your trip. A self-guided tour of Mendoza region is an excellent way to experience this area. Tours and winery lunches with several courses are a popular way to spend a day here.
The region of Maipu is a popular one to visit, since it’s so close to Mendoza city. It’s easily accessible, too, and it’s so close to Mendoza that you can even bike to it. Maipu is also home to some of the larger wineries in the region.
It is enjoyable touring through the different wineries and bodegas of Maipu, but the sooner you let go of the guidebooks and go a little farther away from the central parts of Maipu, there are hidden treasures to be found. Doing this on our trip led us to discover the special bodega and winery that is Casa Barmellon.
The History of Mendoza and Casa Bermellon
The unassuming entrance to Casa Bermellon.
Casa Bermellon is located in Pedriel, Luján de Cuyo, which is a little further south from the larger wineries of Maipu. It’s on a quiet, tree-lined street, down the road from a local elementary school. With the exception of its beautifully bright pink painted walls, its exterior is totally unassuming—it looks like any other building in this small neighborhood.
Taking a step inside, on the other hand, is a completely separate experience. Once you enter the wooden doors, you feel as though you’ve been transported back to the early days of wine production in Mendoza.
The original house was built in 1932. On its grounds grows a hectare of Malbec, planted in 1910 during the heyday of wine growth and production in the region. This was around the same time that Mendoza became the fifth largest producer of wines in the world, and the first wine producing region in South America. Vineyards were plowed on horseback, and traditional irrigation canals were created. The grounds on which Casa Bermellon sits are among some of the oldest wine producing in the region.
Not only is the history of the area important to Casa Bermellon, but the history of people who immigrated to Mendoza during the boom of wine production are important, too. The Mendoza region was home to generations of immigrants from Italy, France and Spain who were set on carrying out the work of their ancestors in Europe. Walking through the halls of the casa, you can easily feel connected to these people who made the building what it is today.
What You Can Expect at a Farm-To-Table Winery Lunch at Casa Bermellon
Wineries all across the region are known for the set menu winery lunches they serve. When you are taking a self-guided tour of the Mendoza region, a lunch like this is an absolute must. It’s an opportunity for each winery restaurant to showcase the flavors of their inventive chefs, and highlight the wondrous selection of wines they offer.
A classic winery lunch typically involves a three- or four-course meal, paired with three or four wines from either the winery hosting the lunch, or neighboring wineries in the region. Thanks to the microcosmic properties of Mendoza and its geography, the local soil lends itself to the production of a range of excellent foods, with everything from olives to tender fruits and vegetables.
Part of what makes a visit to Casa Bermellon so memorable is its farm-to-table experience. During a winery lunch here, your server’s description of each menu item is often followed with “about ten minutes from here”.
The fish were caught upstream, the blueberries were grown in the vineyards, the cheese was produced down the road. It’s this intimate feeling of true farm-to-table dining that enriches lunch time here.
The Winery Lunch, Courses and Wine Pairings at Casa Bermellon
At the time we visited, we opted for the six-course lunch menu at Casa Bermellon, which is paired with four local wines. The menu includes coffee, along with still and sparkling water.
Course One: Amouse-Bouche & Malbec
The homemade hummus at Casa Bermellon.
The first course began with an amuse bouche of freshly prepared hummus and fresh homemade bread.
For our first wine, we were served a glass of the Traman Tremendous Transquilos 2020 Malbec. This was an excellent way to start, since the Mendoza region is most famous for its Malbec. This Malbec had a deep and ruby red colour, a fruity but bold nose and medium finish.
Course Two: Appetizer & Malbec
If you’re travelling with others, I’d highly recommend strategizing to share and try different dishes during a winery lunch like this. We chose two different starters for our appetizer course.
The first was a pair of freshly baked, homestyle empanadas. Empanadas are a staple across Argentina, but these were by far the best we tried during our trip. They were filled to the brim with expertly balanced vegetables, meat and seasonings.
Our other appetizer was a “greens from the orchard” salad. The bed of greens, fruit, homemade cheeses and a delicious house vinaigrette were all directly from Casa Bermello. Not only was it plated beautifully, but each bite burst with flavor in the way that only farm-to-table foods can.
The second wine we were served was another Malbec, this one entirely made from the grapes at the vineyard at Casa Bermellon. It was the Bermellon 2019 Malbec, which had a very interesting smell of black fruit, pepper and cedar, with a rich and intense colour. It was a wonderful pairing with our appetizers, that is for sure.
Course Three: Side Dish of the Day and Cabernet Franc
The side dish of the day was a bowl of house made ravioli, with trout from the nearby river.
It was served chilled, with slices of local peach and cheese, and topped with sunflower seeds. It served as the perfect bite to enjoy with Tresilus Tres Limited Edition (Edicion Limitada) 2018 Cabernet Franc, which paired excellently with our main courses, too. This wine has with notes of chocolate, red cherry and strawberry, a very balanced scale for boldness and acidity, and a dry finish.
Course Four: Main Course and Cabernet Franc
We were obviously very excited for our main course during this meal, not only because we had ordered a steak, but to try the Cabernet Franc they were serving. Cab Franc quickly became Chris’s favourite varietal a few years ago, and I am definitely a big fan, too.
We were so grateful we’d decided to select the mushroom risotto as our other main, as it was absolutely delicious. It was rich with asiago and flavourful local mushrooms.
We ordered an eye steak, cooked medium to perfection. It was served with a side of grilled local vegetables, one of which was stuffed with bacon, and a house sauce. We were prepared to be wowed by the steak, but the whole plate was impressive.
Course Five: Pre-Dessert (“Pre-Postre”) and Cabernet Franc Blend
The pre-dessert course was a delightfully fresh raspberry and basil sorbet. It was the ideal refreshment after the richness of our main course. We would have been happy just with that for dessert, but the kitchen at Casa Bermellon had other plans.
Alone with our pre-dessert, we were poured the fourth and final wine of the meal, the Tresilus Tres Edicion Limitada Blend 2018. It was a Boredeaux-style blend, with notes of tobacco, cassis and blueberry, and a dry finish.
After sampling all four wines, it was difficult to select a favourite. But my vote would be the Bermellon Malbec, although they were all wonderful.
Course Six: Dessert Trio and Coffee
The dessert trio was absolutely delicious. It included a flan topped with peach, a meringue with fresh local berries and a delectable tiramisu. Like all the other courses at Casa Bermellon, the presentation was stunning.
We enjoyed dessert with an expertly prepared espresso, which was an excellent way to end our winery lunch at Casa Bermellon.
Come for the Winery Lunch, Stay for the Staff and Relaxing Atmosphere at Casa Bermellon
While Chris and I are ordinarily pretty capable of planning days on the fly, we found a self guided drive to different wineries and bodegas a little challenging around Mendoza—this is a region that still operates in an old-fashioned “room for tours and reservations, only”. We drove to a fair share of wineries and lunch places that were closed, or unable to accept walk-ins. The favourite phrase of the places that had to turn us away was, “I’m sorry, it’s impossible.”
And then we found Casa Bermellon. When we knocked on the pink door, prepared to be turned away, the owner met us with such a kind, relaxed and reassuring tone. We were not only excited to come in to eat, but to be welcomed in such an inviting way.
Casa Bermellon has such an understated elegance to it. The staff are friendly, laidback, and warm. The grounds and backyard area of this phenomenal home feel elevated, yet welcoming. There is even a cat that belongs to the home, who let Chris scratch his belly, and walks around in the backyard with purpose and chill.
Over the six courses of our lunch, several hours passed by effortlessly. There is no rush here. Casa Bermellon is a place to forget which decade you’re in, and forget where you need to be next. I’d highly recommend to anyone traveling through the Mendoza region to take some time getting lost at a winery lunch at Casa Bermellon.